So I apologize for the lack of blogging and the lack of pictures - I'll add some more to these posts later but these first couple weeks I've been doing so many new things and meeting new friends and family and getting to know the culture here so I haven't really been on the computer much or carrying my camera around with me. Also whenever i try to take a picture people start shaking their finger at me and yelling at me in Wolof.
Our first week here we stayed in a hotel in Mermoz (a
neighborhood in Dakar near our school) and did different activities all week to get introduced to different aspects of Senegalese
life, culture, assumptions, beliefs, safety, health, etc. We’ve been learning a
lot about Senegalese customs and some of their values that are important to
keep in mind when living here, as well as becoming aware of some of our own
basic American values that can translate into our behavior. We also went to this
cultural center and discussed some topics related to gender differences here,
polygamy, the Taliban, do’s and don’ts, etc. and we also got to eat the
traditional Senegalese plate for the first time (Which is on the floor around a common bowl) so that we could learn
proper food etiquette and how it works here before going into our families.
I’ll take a picture of what the traditional plate looks like soon!
Greetings are a HUGE deal in Senegal. If there one thing you
need to remember when visiting Senegal it’s the importance of greetings. A
greeting is more than a greeting, if you don’t say hello to someone (especially
if you’re white and visiting) they take that as a big insult, and it comes off as prude, like you think you're better than them. If you walk by a fruit stand and greet them, then they are your friend! If you don’t greet someone though, and need something later from
them or ask a question, they’ll remember you as that person that didn't say hello, and won’t want to help you. Also the people in your neighborhood are the ones who you go to when
you need things, or if you have guests over and you don’t have enough food, the
neighbor will come and make sure you have enough. This is all part of the
spirit of the Teranga. So you better be sure to be on good terms with your neighbors or if you ever need anything you're on your own! When I first arrived I thought I was supposed to say hi
to everyone I saw in the street and try and shake everyone’s hand, but I soon realized that wasn't necessarily the case after I got some weird looks.
This is basically how a long Senegalese greeting goes (translated from Wolof) It's a bit shorter in Dakar, but apparently it can be this long especially in the rural parts of Senegal.
Hello!
Hello!
How are you?
I’m good/nice/well, and you?
I’m good, how are you?
Good, I am in Peace.
How goes it!?
It goes great and you?
I’m good as well! Are you in peace?
Yes I am in Peace
Is your family well?
Yes my family is well
And your night last night? It was well?
Yes my night was good last night and I am in Peace
Is your body fine?
Yes my body is well and in Peace
And your family? How are your kids?
My kids are great
Are you sure you’re in Peace?
Yes, I am in Peace thank you
And sometimes it continues or it ends, or it starts all over again.
At orientation the first week we talked a lot about gender roles here which are pretty different than in the States. We got into groups and each met with one of the students from the Study center of Dakar (we share the facility with them) and we looked at the nature behind certain situations so that we could understand why things are the way they are, by hearing from the Senegalese students about the topics. We talked about some of the reasons behind why western women are approached and often proposed to by Senegalese men, and how to handle those situations. We also talked about polygomy here and how it works, and about women’s roles in society here. Women tend to not be in the street as much, which is one of the reasons why it’s harder for us to make Senegalese female friends. They also tend to stay at home or be at school usually so it’s not easy to run into many Senegalese women. We also got partnered with a Senegalese language partner which was a great way to start making Senegalese friends! I have tons of Senegalese friends now and they're some of the nicest people ever.
Public Transport (sometimes people are on the roof..) |
It's interesting how many stereotypes most
westerners have about African countries (and they generalize it as one
giant place) and I'm realizing that most of the stereotypes we have are
just lack of education and ignorance about it. When most people think of
Africa, they associate it with poverty, riots, disease, etc. And
that's because if we see something like that in the media about one
place, we generalize the entire continent. One of my Senegalese friends
told me that he had an American staying at his house who thought
everyone here would be like Tarzan, and when he told me this he busted
out laughing! Something I didn't know before coming here was that
Senegal is the only country in Western Africa to never have had a civil
war. Everyone I've talked to always says how Senegal is a country of
peace, and it's true! Even when you greet strangers they ask you if you are in peace. Something that I really like about Dakar is that while the
majority of people are Muslim, people really couldn't care less what
religion someone else practices. You'll find households with Christians
marrying Muslims all the time. The Muslims I've talked to have said how
religion is about their personal relationship with god, and that it is a religion
of peace, and this is one of the reasons why Senegal is a very stable
country because so many people carry this belief with them. Another
thing I noticed that is really different from American cities, is I
haven't seen any drunks in the city or any crazy drugged out people
walking around. That's not to say that it doesn't exist here, but I
actually feel a lot safer here at night then in a city in the USA. Even
the program directors have said that the most crime they really have had
here with students is pick pocketing and mugging.
Thats all for now, stay tuned!
This is a greatly enjoyable read, Jess! Thanks for sharing your unique experience ~ your insights help us to see a part of the world we wouldn't get to otherwise. I wish I could be there too!
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